Domori Puertofino 70% 87.5/100

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Brother, sister or at least close cousin to Domori’s Puertomar, Puertofino is obviously intended to be the ‘finer’ of the two Ocumare varieties. Made from the Ocumare 67 variety, Puertofino is supposed to be the more powerful, but less acidic partner to their Puertomar offering. Again Puertofino is another fine criollo, that has been grown at Hacienda San Jose with Ocumare being the original origin on the variety grown rather than the provenance of the cacao being used.

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Having just tried the Puertomar, I knew a little about what to expect here, a more robust, but refined and elegant offering in comparison to the Puertomar, leading me to suspect this to be a little more in the direction of Domori’s Chuao bar. More nutty and chocolatey and less of the cherry flavours. What I got surprised me a little, it was complex and subtle, it had flavours that I hadn’t tasted before in chocolate all lying beneath the surface, it reminded me of some of the complexities I’ve tasted in tea, but in the end was a mixture of sweet ripe fruit, umami flavours and earthy caramels. The bar confused me a little, at first I wasn’t overly impressed, having really enjoyed the Puertomar this seemed the lesser in terms of flavour and textural qualities, but at the same time I was sad to have finished the bar, wishing somehow that there was more for me to keep exploring. The bar grew on me and all of its best qualities weren’t immediately noticeable, they all came with time and attention and its individuality may not have been fully represented by its score. 


Ingredients: Cocoa mass, cane sugar

Appearance 8.5/10

Colour: Medium brown, light purpling
Texture: Dry, smooth
Mould: Traditional 4 piece Domori mould, consistent
Snap: Thick, crisp
Temp/Shine: Matte sheen, smooth, consistent

Aroma 8.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 7
Notes: Rich chocolate, mango, lemon
Quality: Fragrant, rich

Melt/Mouthfeel 8/10

Length: Slow, hard, long
Evenness: Very even, consistent
Texture: Stiff, rigid, gel, syrup
Quality: Consistent

Acidity 8.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 5
Notes: Lemon, papaya
Quality: Uplifting

Sweetness 9/10

Intensity(0-10): 7
Notes: Lemon, caramel, papaya
Quality: Ripe fruit, natural

Flavour 9/10

Intensity(0-10): 6
Type: Sweet, Salty
Notes: Sweet chamomile, lemon drops, dried woodland mushrooms, papaya, dry white wine
Quality: Complex, flexible, individual

Length 9/10

Flavours are subtle and change and develop over the course of the melt, flavour is long, but not specific

Finish 9/10

Notes: Changes, papaya centre(dark toffee)
Quality: Dry slowly dissipating finish

Balance 9/10

Flavours change, but remain balanced, complex but endlessly complementary, the structure is a little rigid, but adds great stability

Overall 9/10

This bar has good depth of flavour, but even better dimension, its structure is uniform and its expression is individual
 

Domori’s Tasting Notes: It has notes of caramel, tobacco, walnuts, papaya, brushwood, mushrooms and dates.

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