Domori Canoabo 70% 85/100

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Canoabo is another rare strain of criollo that grows at Hacienda San Jose under Domori’s careful stewardship. Originally from the northern coastal regions of Venezuela’s Miranda province, Domori obtained Canoabo for Hacienda San Jose to protect this variety from possible extinction. Without Domori’s dedication to preserving and cultivating these rare criollos and establishing a safe haven for them at Hacienda San Jose, we might never have had the pleasure of tasting an unadulterated Canoabo variety, fortunately however the beans made it to Turin for processing and we have the opportunity of tasting their complex and elegant nature.

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In line with the other criollos I’ve been tasting from Hacienda San Jose I’ve come to expect refined nutty caramel flavours, lots of deep chocolate tones and some subtle nuances that are individual to each of the bean varieties being used. The bars all have a similar feel to them in terms of the processing and have a tendency to be smooth and well developed to bring out more delicate flavours. Canoabo was no different, aromas of caramel and nuts, followed by a smooth mouthfeel that was also a little buttery. What developed here that was individual, was a patisserie like use of dairy flavours, buttermilk and buttercream reminiscent of the refined sugar creams and flaked almonds of European breakfast pastries. This was an easily accessible bar and was easy to enjoy, what it lacked in competition with the rest of Domori’s criollo range was the dimension and complexity that came so easily to some of the other varieties.


Ingredients: Cocoa mass, cane sugar

Appearance 8.5/10

Colour: Dark woody brown
Texture: Polished stone, tight, dry, smooth
Mould: Traditional 4 piece Domori mould, consistent
Snap: Very crisp
Temp/Shine: Matte sheen, smooth, consistent

Aroma 8/10

Intensity(0-10): 8.5
Notes: Caramel, nuts, mild apple cider vinegar, tobacco
Quality: Intensely sweet

Melt/Mouthfeel 9/10

Length: Soft medium slow
Evenness: Even, consistent
Texture: Smooth caramel, buttery
Quality: Texturally pleasurable, very smooth

Acidity 8.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 2
Notes: Buttermilk
Quality: Soft, complementary

Sweetness 9/10

Intensity(0-10): 9
Notes: Sugar, caramel, buttercream icing
Quality: Dominant, well developed

Flavour 8/10

Intensity(0-10): 8
Type: Sweet
Notes: Nuts, almonds, caramel, milk chocolate, golden tobacco
Quality: Honest, distinctive, simple

Length 9/10

Big sweet flavours from start to finish and always present

Finish 9/10

Notes: Milk, caramel
Quality: Lingering milk and caramel notes fade slowly

Balance 8/10

Big sweet flavours dominate the balance, the bar isn’t unbalanced its more one dimensional, soft structure is consistent

Overall 8/10

Beans are well developed and have depth of flavour, but lack dimension and complexity
 

Tasting Notes: Domori saved this criollo cacao from extinction by cultivating it on its own plantation, Hacienda San Jose. Notes of butter cream, dates and almonds. Elegant and extraordinarily smooth.

 

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