Amedei Blanco De Criollo 70% 94/100

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A blend of white criollo cacao from remote plantations in Peru, growing in somewhat similar regions to the famed Porcelana. Known for being sweet and refined with a lack of bitterness, this cacao is distinctly different from Porcelana, while displaying some of the same lighter qualities of a delicate cacao. Once grown and shipped to Tuscany in Italy, Cecilia Tessieri and her team begin work on blending the beans and processing them into one of Amedei’s limited edition chocolate bars.

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Approaching this bar, I’ve had some chocolate made from Peruvian white cacao before although this didn’t claim to be specifically criollo and so I’m not sure if I have a direct comparison. I’m more inclined to lean on my knowledge of the previous Amedei bars which I’ve tried, with an Italian style of sorts their bars offer great processing of distinctly refined cocoa driven flavours, with a lot of their signature bars featuring Venezuela cacao. If I had any suspicions, it would be that this bar is likely to be similar to the Porcelana, but with any red fruit replaced by some complex nutty notes, but if I’m honest I’m more likely to be wrong than right in this assumption. Upon opening the bar we’re presented with the usual Amedei square mouldings and a highly refined cocoa aroma, which inclines me to believe I might not be too far off in my assumptions. This is a bar that has been well developed and that has been processed almost to perfection. The melt and mouthfeel, the balance, the length, all the qualities that surround the flavour of this bar are of top order. Feeling like a fudgey brownie in the mouth, it develops flavours of toasted nuts with a caramel sweetness rounded off by vanilla and liquorice. There is an almost savoury quality to this bar that pervades through, as sweet as it is, there are notes of liquorice and lemongrass that give a slightly salty feel to the flavour, but caramel and fudge have never been shy of befriending salt in the palate. For those that prefer their chocolate to taste of refined cocoa, as opposed to large acidic fruits this might be one of the best bars you can buy, lacking in distraction this is a purer form of chocolate flavour expression and one that is surrounded by amazing qualities.

 

Ingredients: cocoa mass, cane sugar, cocoa butter, vanilla

Appearance 9/10

Colour: Medium brown, light purpling
Texture: Very smooth
Mould: Amedei print 5×2 mould
Snap: Crisp, thick
Temp/Shine: Matte sheen

Aroma 9.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 8.5
Notes: Rich and refined cocoa, spice notes, clove, white wine vinegar, redcurrant
Quality: Refined, acidic, honest

Melt/Mouthfeel 10/10

Length: Long, strong structure
Evenness: Even
Texture: Fudge, very smooth
Quality: Highly refined, very consistent

Acidity 9/10

Intensity(0-10): 2
Notes: Milk, redcurrant
Quality: Complementary

Sweetness 9/10

Intensity(0-10): 7.5
Notes: Vanilla fudge, light caramel
Quality: Developed, rounded

Flavour 9.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 9
Type: Sweet, salt
Notes: Toasted nuts, butter pecan, lemongrass, fudgey brownie, caramel, vanilla, liquorice
Quality: Distinctive, refined

Length 9.5/10

Long building flavours, lengthen out and round off with elegance

Finish 9.5/10

Notes: caramel, fudge, liquorice, cocoa
Quality: Sweet notes of caramel and fudge fill the end with high notes of liquorice, before a fudgey cocoa sets in for a long while afterwards

Balance 9.5/10

While lacking much in the way of acidity and leaning heavily towards flavour this bar is extremely well balanced in spite of this, all attributes are harmonious, medium/strong structure provides good support

Overall 9.5/10

This bar is very well developed, with depth and dimension to its flavour, a flavour that is particularly well balanced, with uniform structure and a distinctive expression


Tasting Notes: A vintage chocolate… the discovery of the most aromatic and wild cocoa is united with the love from he who knows how to tame it and turn it into a real connoisseurs chocolate. A blend of rare cocoa from Peru in an unforgettable limited edition. The scent of berries and wild mushrooms alternates with that of dried plums and toasted almonds. Delicate hints of liquorice prolong the aroma of chocolate inviting you to taste it over and over again.

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