North of the Venezuelan coast and both Trinidad and Tobago, lies the Windward Islands, the closest of which is Grenada. Here on the north west of the island lies Crayfish Bay where a predominantly criollo crop of cacao is grown, which is represented here in this bar. For more information on the farm and its processing Pump Street completed an interview with Kim Russell here http://www.pumpstreetbakery.com/chocolate/grenada, once grown and shipped they arrive in the small Suffolk coastal town of Orford, to a bakery for processing into one of Pump Street’s single origin chocolate bars. A bakery may seem like a strange place to be producing chocolate bars, but if you’ve ever tasted their single origin Ecuadorian milk pain au chocolat, you’ll appreciate that Pump Street’s passion for and dedication to baking transfers just as well to chocolate making, as it does to producing wonderful baked goods.
I’ve only tried samples of Grenadian chocolate before, never having had the pleasure of tasting a whole bar. My recollection is limited to a chocolatey flavour with hints of spice and fruit, neither high nor low in acidity. I have noticed that Crayfish Bay has been talked about in high esteem in terms of Grenadian cocoa though and so I’m hopeful that this might be the most refined of cocoa from that island. Opening the packet and pulling out the familiar Pump Street mould, I can’t help noticing its distinctive colour, before breaking off a piece to test the aroma. There’s a noticeable balance here to the aroma with a set of complementary notes that suggest an inherent balance or refined nature to the bar, it seems as though my hopes might be being fulfilled. A wonderful mouthfeel and some soft handed processing have created a pretty transparent window into the cocoa’s individual qualities, which are best displayed in terms of its inherent balance. Great balance aside, there is some lovely flavours here that smoothly slide around each other reminding me a lot of russet apples and brandy snaps. There is some spice here but it’s not overly prevalent, not is it primary, here the sweetness plays as the centre piece for everything else to revolve around. This is an easy going and accessible bar that’s simple enough for anyone to enjoy, not too acidic, not too refined and a bit like the porridge that Goldilocks chose, just right.
Ingredients: Cocoa beans, cane sugar, organic cocoa butter
Colour: Medium brown, medium purpling
Texture: Smooth, fudgey, slight grain
Mould: 4×4 simple well portioned squares
Temp/Shine: Glossy matte
Notes: Cocoa, plums, florals, honey, light tobacco
Quality: Fragrant, balanced
Evenness: Very even
Texture: Satin, smooth, lightly juicy
Notes: Russet apple, under ripe plum
Quality: Balanced, uplifting
Notes: Brandy snap, set floral honey
Quality: Developed, rounded
Notes: Plum, brandy snap, skimmed milk, russet apples
Quality: Balanced, bright
No flavour dominates or stays the length, rather there is always a confluence of flavours developing over the course of the melt, bar has a soft well rounded nature
Notes: Calavados custard
Quality: An apple brandy cream rounds out the finish, before a lingering sweetness stays a short while reminiscent of good desserts
Bar is overtly balanced, while levels aren’t exactly even they are hugely complementary, attributes work well together to improve the bar as the whole, medium structure provides optimum amount of anchorage and freedom
Bar has decent depth and dimension, simple complexity is well balanced, structure is uniform and expression and processing seem overly honest and balanced
Pump Street Bakery’s Tasting Notes: These beans yield a pronounced blackberry flavour and floral notes.