Georgia Ramon Haiti Pisa Farmers 80% 88/100

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These trinitario & criollo beans are supplied by Roduits Des Iles SA (PISA) a new exporter of cacao beans from Haiti that works with over 1,500 small farmers. Once available they are shipped to Bonn in Germany where Georg Bernadini and Ramona Gustmann of Confiserie Coppeneur fame help to turn them into one of Georgia Ramon’s chocolate bars

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I’ve only tried cocoa from Haiti once and it was in hot chocolate form from Kokoa Collective, which is not necessarily indicative of an origin as a whole, but I remember not being particularly surprised by its profile. It was deep and dark cocoa with an earthy nature, but richer and slightly more refined than I had expected. I’ve also tried a lot of cocoa from the Dominican Republic and while different countries they do share the same land mass. I would expect that with Cuba and Jamaica as neighbours it would express a similar profile to those around it, a deep or dark earthy cocoa possibly with either the propensity for red fruit that comes from either the Dominican Republic or Cuba or rather the spice and sweetness that comes from Jamaica. My hope is that with this being a mix of criollo and trinitario varieties, the bar manages to display some fruit and some refinement as well as some dark earthy cocoa. Opening the bar there’s some well presented chocolate work creating alternate blocs for the Georgia Ramon slab, breaking off a piece initially reveals some intense earthy cocoa, however from there it’s a ride of complexity, with sweet, spicy and fruity notes all fragrantly leaving the bar. Placing a piece in my mouth, well I’ll be honest I find the mouthfeel unusual, at first it’s a muddy mouthcoating cocoa that begins, but it slowly becomes brittle and aerated/foamy, which ends up feeling a little unrefined. To taste the bar opens with intense muddy cocoa, but reveals much more, there’s fruit although not much acidity, with notes of under ripe mango, dates, purple figs, sour cherries all folding over each other before the back end gives way to praline and digestive biscuits. The flavours are complex, but they’re surrounded by this deep and earthy cocoa which creates the dominant base of the bar, meaning that the flavours are not that intense or overt, but they are many. This bar seems to me to be primarily and dominantly an expression of origin, with the complexities coming from the addition of criollo genetics, which creates a bar with a deeply earthy base and yet with some complex dark fruit top notes. Best enjoyed with sweet fortified wines.

Ingredients: Cocoa liquor Haiti, raw cane sugar, cocoa butter

Appearance 9/10

Colour: Darker brown
Texture: Smooth
Mould: GR Ramon alternate bloc slab
Snap: Crisp
Temp/Shine: Glossy matte

Aroma 9.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 8
Notes: Intense cocoa, sweet, spicy, fruity, chilli/raspberry/mango coulis
Quality: Complex, spicy, fragrant

Melt/Mouthfeel 8/10

Length: Long, although it quickens
Evenness: Speeds up, texture becomes brittle
Texture: Pastey, aerated, creamy, lightly astringent
Quality: Uneven, rustic, full

Acidity 8.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 3
Notes: Under ripe mango, purple fig, sour cherry
Quality: Rounding, dark

Sweetness 8.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 7
Notes: Treacle, crème caramel, candyfloss
Quality: Dark, deep

Flavour 9/10

Intensity(0-10): 9
Type: Sweet, bitter
Notes: Muddy cocoa, under ripe mango, date, cream, purple figs, sour cherry, praline, digestive biscuit
Quality: Subtly complex, deep, distinctive

Length 9.5/10

Flavours are deep and long, coating the mouth, rounds are subtle but come consistently with the low peaks of acidity

Finish 8.5/10

Notes: Praline, digestive biscuit
Quality: Muddy textures and light fruitiness fill the end before hints of praline and this long digestive biscuit finish, leaving mild savoury tones of cocoa to linger

Balance 9/10

Bar is deep, heavy and thick, leaning heavily on its intense earthy cocoa flavours, but this heavy base provides a massive anchor for its flavour complexities. More highly stable than it is balanced, unwavering rather than harmonious

Overall 8.5/10

Bar has massive depth, it has dimension, but way more complexity which is heavily embedded, structure is heavy and consistent, expression seems true of origin, processing has attempted to provide refinement


Georgia Ramon’s Tasting Notes: Ripe figs, cherries and roasted nuts with floral notes.

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