Green & Blacks Dark 70% 83.5/100

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This bar is made from organic trinitario beans that are fair trade certified. Originally founded by Craig Sams in 1991, Green & Blacks is now owned and operated by Mondelez International.

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I’ve tried this bar before, I used to eat it many years ago when I was looking for dark chocolate, before the boom in craft chocolate makers. At the time I remember it tasting like better chocolate, but not wholly individual or groundbreaking like the first time I tried a Madagascan trinitario. I’m expecting something very similar, high quality and consistent industrial style processing, with smooth archetypal chocolate flavours that offer something accessible, but not independently interesting. Opening the bar it’s the familiar 10 x 3 G&B small block mould and some fairly decent chocolate work. Breaking a piece off reveals some simple aromas, with floral cocoa tones and hints of dry tobacco and just a clue to some acidic red apple. Placing a piece in my mouth, offers a fairly decent mouthfeel, as I’d expect from some industrial processing, it’s expectedly smooth and creamy with a full presence. To taste this bar feels like a fruity chocolate with a big creamy vanilla blanket thrown over it. The acidity might not be the most dimensioned, but its pretty well rounded and could provide something interesting here, instead its smothered by smooth creaminess. The creaminess does make for a pleasant mouthfeel, but it takes away from the expression of the cocoa beans. The bar ends up wholly inoffensive, but fairly uninteresting with simple and somewhat hollow flavours that carry no real substance with them. Given its price tag it’s a lot better than some of the other supermarket shelf dark chocolate bars, but there’s no risks being taken here, this bar is about accessibility at the cost of flavour appreciation. As such the bar scores well in mouthfeel, length and balance, which are all brought about by quality processing and the addition of cocoa butter and vanilla, but it’s at detriment to taste and flavour, with an undeveloped sweet flavour and a disappointing finish. This bar could definitely be worse, but it’s enough encouragement for you to seek out craft chocolate.

Ingredients: Cocoa mass*, raw cane sugar*, cocoa butter*, emulsifier (soya lecithin), vanilla extract* *organic

Appearance 9/10

Colour: Medium brown, light purpling
Texture: Smooth, light flake
Mould: 10 x 3 G&B apostrophe mould
Snap: Crisp
Temp/Shine: Glossy matte, consistent

Aroma 7.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 8
Notes: Floral cocoa, dry tobacco, red apple
Quality: Simple, flat, lightly acidic

Melt/Mouthfeel 9/10

Length: Long
Evenness: Even
Texture: Creamy, smooth
Quality: Refined, full, light

Acidity 8.5/10

Intensity(0-10): 5
Notes: Red apple, orange
Quality: Simple, rounded

Sweetness 8/10

Intensity(0-10): 8
Notes: Orange, cane sugar
Quality: Honest, simple

Flavour 8/10

Intensity(0-10): 7
Type: Sweet, bitter
Notes: Sweet orange, red apple, cocoa, cream, vanilla
Quality:

Length 9/10

Flavours have a decent length to them and round well

Finish 7.5/10

Notes: Sweet orange, cream, vanilla
Quality: last remnants of sweet orange play out before a creamy slightly synthetic vanilla finish which lingers on

Balance 9/10

Additional cocoa butter and vanilla help to smooth the bar out and provide a lot of balance with a strong structure that reigns the flavour in

Overall 8/10

Bar has some depth but lacks dimension, relatively small amounts of complexity are overshadowed by balance, strong structure is consistent and expression feels dominated by processing with the bar designed to be smooth and sweet rather than specifically flavourful


Green & Blacks’ Tasting Notes: Our dark 70% chocolate is made from fine trinitario cocoa beans. The cocoa solids are a combination of cocoa mass and cocoa butter. The cocoa mass provides the complex fruity notes while the cocoa butter allows the chocolate to melt beautifully and cleanly in the mouth, revealing intense bittersweet chocolate aromas. We select the finest organic ingredients and take extra care to bring out the distinct flavour that has become our trademark.

 

 

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